SQ16 PRO
Concrete & asphalt saw SQ16 PRO
Straight, deep cuts in slab and roadway.
View details5-minute training
5 minHow to use the concrete saw
Run a floor saw with the right diamond blade for the material, wet cutting, and depth taken in 2–5 cm passes along a marked line. The SIMAQ SQ16 PRO has a 13 HP Honda GX390 engine, 300 to 450 mm blades, up to 130 mm cutting depth and a 30 L water tank. For slab control joints, cut to ¼ of the thickness as soon as the concrete can take the cut.
Also called: floor saw, walk-behind saw, road saw
The saw makes straight cuts in concrete and asphalt: control joints, patching, utility trenches and controlled demolition. The right blade, water and depth in passes: that's how the cut runs straight and the blade lasts.
- 01
Right diamond blade
Concrete → a concrete blade (the SQ16 PRO comes with two 400 mm blades); asphalt → an asphalt blade. Mount it in the rotation direction shown by the arrow.
- 02
Fill water and open the spray
Fill the 30 L tank. Always wet cutting: water cools the blade, controls dust and extends its life. Check flow on both sides.
- 03
Mark the line
Snap a chalk or string line. Align the saw's front guide with the mark.
- 04
Lower in passes, not all at once
Cut in partial depths (2–5 cm per pass) to full depth. If the blade binds or smokes, stop, check the water and ease off the feed.
- 05
Control joints on time
On a slab, cut control joints early (once it takes the cut without raveling) at ~¼ of the thickness, so cracking starts where you want it.
Do this
- Always wet cut, with water on both faces of the blade.
- Advance evenly, letting the blade cut at its pace.
- If the blade binds or smokes → stop, check the water and ease the feed.
- Control-joint depth ≈ ¼ of the slab thickness.
Avoid this
- Don't dry-cut a blade meant for water: you ruin it.
- Don't force full depth in a single pass.
- Don't twist the saw in the kerf: the blade binds or shatters.
- Don't wait days to cut control joints: the slab cracks on its own wherever it likes.
Safety
- Glasses, face shield, hearing protection and dust respirator.
- Blade guard always on; never remove it.
- Blade fully stopped before lifting or transporting.
Test yourself
Got it down?
Self-check
Each practice: do it or avoid it? Tap your answer.
Don't force full depth in a single pass.
Control-joint depth ≈ ¼ of the slab thickness.
Advance evenly, letting the blade cut at its pace.
Don't dry-cut a blade meant for water: you ruin it.
Always wet cut, with water on both faces of the blade.
Don't twist the saw in the kerf: the blade binds or shatters.
If the blade binds or smokes → stop, check the water and ease the feed.
Don't wait days to cut control joints: the slab cracks on its own wherever it likes.
Buying guides
Clear up your questions before you quote
Guide · 7 min
Parts of a concrete and asphalt saw: blade, engine, water and depth
Blade, flanges and guard; engine, pulleys and belts; water tank, valve and pipe; depth crank and pointer; wheels and handlebar. What each part of the saw does, what wears and what to check every day.
Read Guide · 8 minYour equipment in the dry season: dust, air filter, heat and how to store it
In the dry season dust clogs the air filter and heat punishes the engine; and whatever sits idle (pumps, rainy-season gear) gets damaged if stored badly. What to check, how often, and how to store fuel, oil and battery according to the Honda manuals.
Read Guide · 5 minWhich cutting blade should you use for concrete, asphalt or stone?
Cured concrete, green concrete, asphalt or stone: which diamond blade goes on the saw, what size, and how to tell you picked the wrong one.
ReadFAQ
What people ask about the concrete saw
How do you cut asphalt with a saw?
With a diamond asphalt blade, water on, in 2–5 cm passes down to the depth you need. Mark the line first and let the blade advance at its own pace; the guide on cutting asphalt and concrete covers it in detail.
How deep does the SQ16 PRO cut?
Up to 130 mm (5.1″), depending on the blade you fit (300 to 450 mm). Depth is set manually.
When do you cut control joints?
As soon as the slab takes the cut without raveling the edges, and to ¼ of the thickness. Wait too long and the slab cracks wherever it likes; the guide on control joints covers timing and depth.
Can you dry-cut with the SQ16 PRO?
No: it's a wet-cutting saw with its own water tank. Without water the blade overheats, wears out early and dust goes everywhere.
What's the most common cutting mistake?
Trying to cut full depth in one pass or twisting the saw in the kerf. The blade burns, binds or shatters.
What daily maintenance does the saw need?
Every 8 hours: check the oil, wiring and the water and fuel hoses, and grease the blade-shaft bearings.
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